Hemispheres Dispatch: “Dress Cents” at the Dortmund Opernhaus

I made my debut in the mile high (writers) club this month, with a “Dispatch” in the airline mag Hemispheres.   “Dispatches” is a travel section, a collection of brief wacky vignettes from around the world.  I first made contact with the editor, Chris Wright, pitching a completely different project, a longer “Three Perfect Days” piece … Continue reading Hemispheres Dispatch: “Dress Cents” at the Dortmund Opernhaus

Beer Encyclopedia: The Grand Tour of Dortmund Pilsners

You may have read my posts on brews and breweries, but this is something grander: a full chapter in the yet-unwritten Beer Enclyclopedia.  Few have the time or resources to attempt the research necessary to write something as bold and as boozy as this, but given a month in Dortmund, I knew that – setting … Continue reading Beer Encyclopedia: The Grand Tour of Dortmund Pilsners

Fate, Freedom, and Anarchy: On Open Jams in Dortmund

A few weeks ago, Matthias and I stood in a yellow candlelit passageway papered with Soviet-style posters and invitations to seances.  To our left, the front of the shuttered Albertus Magnus Church was draped with large colored-paper banners decrying police brutality and calling for some kind of new order – starting here, at the Soziales … Continue reading Fate, Freedom, and Anarchy: On Open Jams in Dortmund

BVB Über Alles: Saluting a Defeated Dortmund

I’m not sure how many Dortmunders can say that they left Westfalenstadion pop-eyed in excitement on 23 Aug. after Borussia Dortmund’s knock-kneed season opener against Leverkusen, a sobering 0-2 loss.  Living in Dortmund for two weeks in 2012 and a month in 2014 doesn’t make me a Dortmunder (for one thing, I still speak infantile German), … Continue reading BVB Über Alles: Saluting a Defeated Dortmund

Post-Fascist Aesthetics at Dortmund’s Museum Ostwall

Visiting two wonderful widows in an apartment in Scharnhorst, a northeast district of Dortmund, Steve and I mentioned to the hostess – Oma, eighty-five and able to make a man reach unwilling for a fourth helping with the smallest flick of her index finger – that we’d been to the Museum Ostwall in the U-Building at … Continue reading Post-Fascist Aesthetics at Dortmund’s Museum Ostwall