Today’s Brewery: Hövels (Original) Altbier

After visiting the Leipzig and the Gose brewery, Matthias was quick to bring Steve and I back to our senses, and back to Dortmund beer.  As any Dortmunder will tell you, this city was once the beer capital of the nation, brewing export and altbier, and producing more barrels than any city in Germany.  ButContinue reading “Today’s Brewery: Hövels (Original) Altbier”

Today’s Brews: Gose and Other Beers from the Bayerischer Bahnhof Gasthaus & Gosebrauerei

I tried Gose beer on my first night at the Village Beer Merchant, Buffalo’s premier craft-beer store and one of the epicenters of the growing “drink (and brew) good beer” movement in my hometown.  The brew is classified as a sour wheat beer – but unlike the sour Belgians, this one is brewed with saltContinue reading “Today’s Brews: Gose and Other Beers from the Bayerischer Bahnhof Gasthaus & Gosebrauerei”

Strange, Beautiful, Shabby, and Grand: The Rich Melancholy of Kraków, Poland

While staying in Góra Świętej Anny (St. Annaberg), a hill-town of 580 souls in Silesia, Poland, my traveling companions and I decided to take a day-trip to Kraków.  The pierogis, we were told, were filling; the women, beautiful.  We’d traded our euros for Polish złoty, and the royal city called to us like dark post-Communist playground.  Continue reading “Strange, Beautiful, Shabby, and Grand: The Rich Melancholy of Kraków, Poland”

A Quick Guide to Sligo, Ireland

I haven’t been in Sligo long, but I waste no time in getting to know a new city.  (At two in the morning after my first night in town, I took a wrong turn walking home and found myself a mile up the road to Ben Bulben, next to an unlit Esso gas station andContinue reading “A Quick Guide to Sligo, Ireland”

Today’s Brew: “La Fin du Monde,” an Ale for the End of the World

A few nights ago in Buffalo, N.Y., thunder cracked and rolled more sudden and booming than anything I’d heard since the days when I was very young, and I’d sit on my porch for every one of these summer storms, wondering (and thrilling) at the chance that by my proximity to the metal railings on allContinue reading “Today’s Brew: “La Fin du Monde,” an Ale for the End of the World”