Aye, Nay, and Devo-Max: Growing Pains and the Scottish Independence Referendum

I’ve not been able to update my blog since I landed in Edinburgh on Saturday, being too busy dancing Ceilidhs, downing pints, visiting Tom Riddle’s grave, and decorating my flat.  I have several backlogged posts from Germany to put up, so keep a vigilant eye on my RSS feed for posts on Dortmund pilsners andContinue reading “Aye, Nay, and Devo-Max: Growing Pains and the Scottish Independence Referendum”

Today’s Brewery: Bergmann, at the Bergmann Kiosk

Kiosks in Dortmund are as common as roadside shrines in India.  Some kiosks are walk-in, but most are windows where late-night wanderers buy emergency 5€ cigarettes and beers at prices one-fourth what you’d find in a pub.  A bottle of Brinkhoff’s might be 90 cents; Hövels, 1.10€.  My favorite kiosk has to be the smallerContinue reading “Today’s Brewery: Bergmann, at the Bergmann Kiosk”

BVB Über Alles: Saluting a Defeated Dortmund

I’m not sure how many Dortmunders can say that they left Westfalenstadion pop-eyed in excitement on 23 Aug. after Borussia Dortmund’s knock-kneed season opener against Leverkusen, a sobering 0-2 loss.  Living in Dortmund for two weeks in 2012 and a month in 2014 doesn’t make me a Dortmunder (for one thing, I still speak infantile German),Continue reading “BVB Über Alles: Saluting a Defeated Dortmund”

Post-Fascist Aesthetics at Dortmund’s Museum Ostwall

Visiting two wonderful widows in an apartment in Scharnhorst, a northeast district of Dortmund, Steve and I mentioned to the hostess – Oma, eighty-five and able to make a man reach unwilling for a fourth helping with the smallest flick of her index finger – that we’d been to the Museum Ostwall in the U-Building atContinue reading “Post-Fascist Aesthetics at Dortmund’s Museum Ostwall”

Going Home to County Clare

And some time make the time to drive out west Into County Clare, along the Flaggy Shore, In September or October, when the wind And the light are working off each other So that the ocean on one side is wild With foam and glitter, and inland among stones The surface of a slate-grey lakeContinue reading “Going Home to County Clare”