Every Starbucks in Edinburgh (A Celestial Cartography)

I should start by apologizing to my friend and frequent traveling partner, Steve Coffed.  I used to give him grief every time he suggested going into a Starbucks, anywhere in the world.  The coffee, I said, is inconsistent from city to city – and nothing to write home about even at its best.  The atmosphereContinue reading “Every Starbucks in Edinburgh (A Celestial Cartography)”

Edinburgh’s Christmas (or, how I finally found out what a ‘Hot Toddy’ actually means)

Edinburgh is a multicultural city, a cosmopolis, one of the great European capitols.  I often pause around three o’clock on a clear day to catch the sun paint the minaret of the Central Mosque across Potterrow from George Square in brilliant amber and warm beige (and later, I might head to their kitchen for £5 curry).  FriendsContinue reading “Edinburgh’s Christmas (or, how I finally found out what a ‘Hot Toddy’ actually means)”

Edinburgh’s Beans: A Quick Guide to Coffee Shops in the Uni District

Edinburgh boasts an embarrassment of riches for lovers of single malts and coffee beans alike – the city is crowded with pubs and coffee shops, two or three to a block.  If you’re moving to Edinburgh for the long term, ignore this article: it’s better to stumble and discover these places for yourself.  But ifContinue reading “Edinburgh’s Beans: A Quick Guide to Coffee Shops in the Uni District”

Edinburgh Turns Orange (And Purple, and a Little Bit Red-White-and-Blue)

Conservative “Orangemen” marchers add one more voice to the referendum debate Half a block north of the west entrance of the Meadows park in Edinburgh, Scotland, three neon-vested parking officers sit at a table cluttered with radios and handheld printers, staring down into their smartphones.  Students and city workers come here, a small shop calledContinue reading “Edinburgh Turns Orange (And Purple, and a Little Bit Red-White-and-Blue)”

Pictures from the Grand Orange Lodge of Scotland’s March Through Edinburgh

At eleven this morning, 15,000 members and friends of the Grand Orange Lodges marched through Edinburgh, Scotland.  The move was out of season – July is the peak month for Orange marches, which have been controversial in recent decades for taking routes through Catholic neighborhoods, and turning violent.  In an unusual but not unanticipated move, theContinue reading “Pictures from the Grand Orange Lodge of Scotland’s March Through Edinburgh”